The Tudor era begins in 1485, lasts for about 100 years and is commonly referred to as an English late Gothic. Influences of Italian Renaissance, however, are unmistakable and especially the prevalence of Spanish fashion, which Queen Elizabeth introduced in England in 1558 with her accession.

In the mid-16th Century, the discovery of America and the establishment of its colonial empire make of Spain a major political power, and the trendsetter in fashion throughout Europe. The Renaissance in art and clothing found its end under the absolutist reign; Fashion serves, as in the Middle Ages, the Court and the Church.
Tudor
The clothes of both men and women are tight and stiffened. The slits, originally intended to give comfort, gradually disappear altogether. The geometric line dominates.
Figure as the ball, the cone and the circle circumscribe the human body to hide all natural contours.
As regards men's clothing, doublets and overcoats are still in vogue albeit taking the shape of an upside-down cone. The waist is so tight that even men cannot do without a corset. The doublet features a high, stiff collar, while sleeves are smooth and usually laced. Doublet and sleeves are joined by means of shoulder bulges and flaps, whose embellishment becomes especially relevant.

Figure as the ball, the cone and the circle circumscribe the human body to hide all natural contours.
People also wear loosely hanging, decorative sleeves, reminiscent of the Houppelande, partly consisting of smooth fabric panels alone. Trousers resemble two big balls and short coats feature a circular cut. Besides the beret, Spanish men mostly covered their heads with hats featuring a high head and a narrow brim. The distinguishing feature of the Spanish costume is the ruff..
The dress is high-necked and the ruff appears - just as for men's clothes - to separate the head from the body, much like an oversized disc.
This shirt ruff grew increasingly wider until it finally became an independent, shirt-detached item in the 80s.
The women's dress is even narrower and stiffer than that of men. Thus, natural forms are completely negated by stylizing the upper and lower body into geometric triangles. This effect is achieved through the introduction of the corset. Even if corset precursors were found in the Middle Ages, only at the Spanish court was this garment provided with iron and whalebone rods, whereby the woman's upper body was stylized as per the prevailing fashion, i.e. in Spain, in the shape of a pointed cone. The bodice, partially armoured with lead plates, completely broke down the curve of the breast.
Beak shoes (medieval poulaines) were an inseparable part of Gothic fashion.
Sleeves are similar to those found in men's clothing, i.e. they are also provided with shoulder ridges and extra hanging sleeves. The second invention of Spanish fashion is the crinoline, whereby the lower cone of the garment is made. Its enormous popularity in Spain makes it a must-have item for centuries. As it returned to European Courts in the 30s of the 17th Century, it caught on even more in Spain.
The outer garment reproduces the form of the corset and the crinoline. It is only partly closed to the waist, making the undergarment visible, and forming the wildly popular triangular shape. Hairstyles and hats follow suit and appear as strict and rigid as clothing. Perched at the souped hair, one sometimes finds a small hat, whose shape corresponds to men's headgear, a full-beaded skullcap or a pearl diadem. England adopted Spanish clothing style but made it its own in various ways. Firstly, it exaggerated Spanish forms and, secondly, dropped most of its stiffness while introducing brighter and friendlier colours. The characteristic crinoline of the late Queen Elizabeth's reign started at the waist with an enormous breadth, while the oversized Stuart collar framed the neckline together with the "wings". Italian ladies rejected both the excessive lacing at the waist as well as the extremely wide crinoline. Although still wearing ruffs, they did so in a much simpler form. Usually, costumes were fitted with a fan-shaped, oversized lace collar. Moreover, the dark colours of the Spaniards did not resonate well in Italy. The initial enthusiasm for Spanish fashion gradually faded away in France. Apparently, colours were neither bright nor shiny enough for local taste. Furthermore, doublets and trousers differed from the Spanish ones; indeed, trouser legs were narrower and extended down to knee-breeches. French women still wore corset and crinoline although the latter in a barrel-shaped form. In Germany, the Spanish clothing style hardly took root at first. Initially, it was adopted by the German princes of the Counter Reformation, i.e. in the Catholic south, and expanded slowly from there - although never quite completely - over to the north. For example, the chamarre was amply retained as the main garment and Spain's trousers were never a local favourite.
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