Women's fashion develops in a completely opposite direction: its role is simply to convey the men's wealth. Dresses and skirts become increasingly complex. And they do so to such extent that this era went down in fashion history as the "Second Rococo". Crinoline Period
(2nd Rococo) This development can be partly attributed to the fashion-conscious young emperors and queens as Eugenie of France, … … Elisabeth in Austria, … … Isabella II in Spain and Victoria in England. Befitting to this "Second Rococo" is also the fact that - as in the first Rococo - the crinoline determines the shape of the skirt. Even the numerous petticoats of the Biedermeier eraprove insufficient to shape the vast masses of material and, therefore, further support is called for. This is done by means of a crinoline, a hoop skirtwith recessed steel rails that appears in early 1850s, and reaches its broader adoption in the 1860s. The shape changes from a dome-like structure at the beginning of the 1850s to a pyramid-like figure. In the 1860s, skirts feature a flat front that is drawn towards the back along its length. Mass produced, the crinoline soon becomes an item affordable -and thus wearable by - to all social classes. In the evening, clothes often present gold and silver brocades, but also iridescent fabrics and moiré are increasingly worn. The hem may well reach ten meters and the skirt diameter attain two and a half. The cleavage is framed by a "Berthe". Muslin, gauze and tulle are also relatively common. These fabrics, just as costly as silk robes, can be worn only a few times because of their sensitivity. They are ornated with sumptuous ruffles, flounces and flowers. At times, these delicate materials are presented in combination with heavy brocades and satin fabrics. Silk fabrics become common also for day, typically high-necked clothes. Dress trains, one to two meters in length, are also seen on the streets. Towards the end of the 60s, the Polonaise style, known from the first Rococo, makes a comeback. In essence, it entails gathering the skirt on the back and at the sides by means of straps. Thus is announced the bustle fashion of the Industrial era.