Around 1818 begins a recession period, characterized by a repression of freedom of opinion and a retreat into a soulful, but sometimes narrow privacy. This era is known primarily under the name of "Biedermeier". Biedermeier period It is thus no coincidence that painters produce many family pictures in domestic environments. Men's clothing remains essentially unchanged and is at best a little easier. Tail coat, frock coat or redingote remains the daywear of the bourgeois gentleman. By the middle of the century, tail coats are also considered daywear. For festive occasions, however, tails are the only acceptable clothing. Moreover, they can be cut à la francaise - front cut in an arch - or à l'anglaise - front square . The tails of tailcoats extended behind in an increasingly bell-shaped form.
Sleeves of the 20s and 30s - parallel to women's fashion - become increasingly bulkier until they fit tighter in the 40s again. New Layer Knee-breeches go completely out of fashion. Pantaloons, pleated at the waist, are exclusively used. They are sometimes so long as to cover the wearer's feet. In this case, the excess length is cut over the instep and a footbridge is added and drawn under the shoe, which thus provides the necessary firmness. This form can be found until mid-century. Collar and lapels are quilted and follow the body shape. The Biedermeier men's elegance rests on a slim waist, accomplished at times by wearing a corset. The initially strong colours of tails gradually fade to black over the years Matching trousers are however increasingly brighter. The West may continue to be colourful: all sorts of flowers, stripes and checked patterns are allowed. The lining, always in different colours, provides additional variety.
In the evening, gentlemen wear jabots. In the 20s, the collar is designed as the so-called 'chocer', an extremely highstructure. Ties remain an important accessory. Indeed, they gain so much relevance that they are even used to convey feelings and moods:
Artists throw the scarf around casually, ties of free spirits and romantics are black, while Conservatives wear their white starched tie in artful arrangements. Likewise, wearing beards evidences a democratic spirit, which makes some States ban such display completely. The cylinder holds even up to the 20th Century as a collapsible, called "Chapeau Claque". Half-boots are worn during the day while evenings are suitable for some sort of heel or court shoes. At the beginning of the 20s, women's clothing sends the waist back to its proper position. Once again, bodices strongly emphasize body shapes, skirts become wider and shorter, and free falling drapery resurfaces. The corset also makes a comeback. Over the years, it is tied more closely.
A patent corset - invented in 1833 - enables ladies to avert impending blackouts by drawing a loop attached to the bosom. In the 30s, the slim waist is additionally emphasized by means of gigantic sleeves, the so-called "lobe" or "ham sleeves". These voluminous structures hold their shape using whalebone frames. The cleavage starts becoming wider in the 20s. It often features laced trimmings, the so-called Berthe. The actual shoulder neckline grows deeper and deeper over time, until it just starts over the elbow. However, 1836 sees an abrupt end to this trend: sleeves are now back on tightly. Very often, the collar is pleated whereas pleats occasionally adorn the entire front part of the bodice. The increasingly re-lengthening skirts can be gathered up. Skirts are becoming progressively wider. Lined with many small wrinkles, people lay one skirt above the other.
Petticoats are reinforced, partly with horsehair. The number is constantly increasing and reaches half a dozen. They are always white as collared underwear is considered immoral. In any case, their immoralitydoes not surpass that of wearing trousers which, since the 20s, are an integral part of the underwear. Trousers are usually knee or calf length. As coats can be hardly worn due to the extremely wide sleeves, the exceedingly wide Rotonde is introduced. Otherwise, as protection against the elements, ladies in the Biedermeier period wear a jacket dress, cut similar to the normal day dress but made of a thicker material. We find also capes, cloaks, Fichus, Canezous, shoulder collars reaching down to the waist and scarves. The main headgear is the poke bonnet - an unrivalled favourite for decades. It consists of a large head with a wide brim and is tied with a ribbon under the chin. Somewhere in between a cap and a hat, it can be made out of straw and fabric.
In the evening, people tend to wear turbans. Hats are kept on during visits or at the theatre. Clothes garnishing abounds: pleated sections, endless ruffles, lace, ribbons and artificial flowers. Strips interspersed with scattered flowers but also plaid patterns grow in popularity. At beginning of the Biedermeier period, evening cotton dresses are easy to spot although they are later replaced by silks and velvets. Particularly iridescent, light-reflecting silks enjoy great popularity. Around 1850, the jacket and the non-marked waistline sports coat entered the fashion world. The tail coat remains an evening garment. The Biedermeier period ended in 1848 with the defeat of the bourgeois revolution. On its wake, the mechanisation and industrialisation era begins. Fashion is obviously not a major concern for manufacturers and other big employers. Conversely, clothes must be especially practical and fit for use. Thus, the male corset disappears entirely, as well as coloured vests and ties. Grey and black tones openly dominate. The Biedermeier period ended in 1848 with the defeat of the bourgeois revolution. On its wake, the mechanisation and industrialisation era begins. Fashion is obviously not a major concern for manufacturers and other big employers. Conversely, clothes must be especially practical and fit for use. Thus, the male corset disappears entirely, as well as coloured vests and ties. Grey and black tones openly dominate.
Around 1850, the jacket and the non-marked waistline sports coat entered the fashion world. The tail coat remains an evening garment.