World trade is in the 90s experiences rapid growth. More and more technological inventions are produced and an increasing number of raw materials and supplies become available. This time, the 'Belle Epoque', continues until the beginning of the First World War. Belle Epoque At the beginning of this decade, people still retain previous fashion styles, especially evident in the ham-shaped sleeves of the Biedermeier, which developed by the middle of the decade into a whole new style: the "Art Nouveau". Art Nouveau fashion is distinguished by the slim silhouette. The skirt is worn without underframes and with only a petticoat. It wraps extremely close around the hips to amply extend downward by means of folds and pleats. This gives rise to the flared skirt, which is cut into numerous narrow and wide webs at the top and bottom respectively.
The front area is often provided an excess length that must be gathered when walking. The now visible petticoat -the jupon- becomes an important part of fashion, being sometimes more valuable than the dress worn over it.It is always made of silk. The famous S-line with the bulging chest is achieved using a novel cut corset, which tightly presses the waist and the stomach too - tighter indeed than ever before. 55-cm waists and less are commonplace.
This corset, ignoring any anatomical consideration, as well as the tight lacing, lead some wearers to their death, and thus, to the end of the corset era. Future models no longer serve to shape the body but to reinforce and support the same. Nearing the turn of the century, the blouse enjoys increasing popularity, initially only for working women, and later in the upper strata of society, whose members favour those made of precious materials. It makes the ideal companion for the costume, which becomes an essential component of clothing. It often has a high stand-up collar, which remains in fashion until 1912/1913. An innovation in fashion is the introduction of sportswear. Already in the early Belle Epoque we find special clothing for cycling, which is one of the most popular sports. Skirts become much shorter; special tennis, golf, hiking clothes and swimsuits are created. At the beginning of the 20th century also clothing for automobile sports. Originating in English sports fashion, the "tailor made" - the costume made by a man's tailor - has formed an integral part of fashion since the end of the 19th century. It is worn by all classes and is very convenient for women, who are increasingly conquering the world of work. The jacket of the costume is more or less cut tight at the waist, sometimes even in a straight line. Costume skirts are also found light ruffles, often the skirts are divided in the front center and run out to the hem in arches. The jacket becomes an essential wardrobe element. From fitted shape to bag-like designs, forms and variations abound. Cut and material depend on the occasion. With the advent of automotive sports, there are also the first car coats, whose main task is to protect the wearer from dirt and dust. They are made of sturdy materials and have a straight comfortable cut. Evening coats, on the other hand, are made of precious materials such as damask and brocade fabrics, often trimmed with fur or consisting entirely of fur. Popular is the so-called cocoon coat, which is cut very wide to the waist and narrow in the lower part. Very fashionable at the beginning of the 20th century are oversized hats, which reach their largest size around 1910. They are lavishly decorated with flowers, feathers, tulle veils and ribbons. From 1911, the volume decreases again and the hats tend to increase in height. Towards the end of the Belle Epoque, 1910/1911, the skirt also becomes increasingly narrower in the lower area up to the so-called hobble skirt, which makes it impossible for its wearer to move forward with normal steps. Only tripping and limping is allowed in it. 1912 - 1914 the skirt becomes somewhat wider again. In evening dresses, it is often provided with an angular or tapered train, gathered in a sophisticated way, In evening wear, chiffon, crêpe de chine, lace fabrics and other delicate, sheer materials are among the favorites of this era. Already in the 1880s there was a call for a fundamental change, especially the abolition of the corset. The reform dress developed, which existed in parallel with the elegant fashion for two decades. The dresses are little to no figure-accentuating, their design goes strongly into the arts and crafts. In the late Belle Epoque, in the 1910s up to the First World War, fashion reaches its greatest refinement to date. The influence of the Orient with its splendor is unmistakable.But Japanese, Greek and Egyptian inspirations also find favor. These include, for example, the kimono blouses and the refined pleated skirts. Many of the fashion designers and costume designers see themselves first and foremost as artists who also demonstrate astonishing achievements in the field of fine arts, such as Mariano Fortuny, Leon Bakst or Paul Poiret.
The style, especially in evening dress, is accordingly a very picturesque one: skilful drapery, various layers of fabric made of precious materials laid over one another, sometimes provided with pearl embroidery and antique lace result in a very differentiated overall picture. The fantasy and "joie de vivre", expressed in fashion in the 1910s, comes to an abrupt end with the start of WW1. After the end of the war in 1918, society and consequently the style of clothing changed fundamentally towards the practical and sober.